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Know more Tubeless
Ever since the invention of the “wheel”, mankind has been on a constant search for a way to make them more efficient.
For over half a century the Car and Motorcycle industries have long known the benefits of having a lower rolling resistance to improve rolling efficiency and fuel economy. Yet within the Bicycle industry it has really only become a key focus in more recent times. So why has it taken so long for them to catch on?
Minimising the rolling mass of a wheel involves reducing the bulk of a wheel’s “weight” from the outer most extremity of its diameter, so that it’s “centre of gravity” remains closer to the centre of its circumference, around the ‘hub’. The easiest way to do this within a wheel / tyre combination is to reduce the mass of the tyre and tube.
With bicycles (Mountain Biking and Road Cycling in particular) for the past decade, the most common approach was to reduce the tyre weight. By adjusting the compounds and thickness’ (especially within the sidewalls) and by reducing the amount of models produced containing Wire Beads, tyre manufacturers have been able to significantly reduce the weight and therefore rotating mass or their tyres whilst maintaining a durable and grip inspiring casing.
However… This has only taken us so far. When we reflect back at the Car and Motorcycle industries, their biggest advance in wheel efficiency has come from removing what was once a key component to ensuring the wheel provided an efficient yet comfortable ride without having to make them of cold construction, THE TUBES!
The rubber tube is without question, the greatest contributor of weight affecting rolling mass to a Bias or Radial tyre set up. By removing the tube, you are not only removing a substantial amount of a wheels rotating mass but you are also enabling it to be run at a lower pressure (PSI) with a reduced risk of obtaining a “pinch” flat or puncture. Running a tyre at a lower pressure also allows the tread surface to make greater contact with the terrain providing the vehicle with more traction.
The biggest obstacle with converting a tyre to tubeless has always been finding a way to contain the air pressure within the rim / tyre combination. The revolution (for bicycles atleast) came with the introduction of “Stan’s No More Tubes” tyre sealant. This sealant contains a special low viscosity liquid that coats the inside of the tyre and carries with it specially formulated “sealing crystals”. when there is a puncture the low viscosity of the sealant finds it’s way around to the leak quickly and the crystals work by sealing the larger holes. It can remain liquid within the tyre casing for months before needing replacement or until it is required by the presence of a puncture. Most other brand tyre sealants will work in much the same way. This along with the introduction of specific rims and tape and it makes for quite a good system. Providing you use a high quality, self sealing Tubeless Presta Valve. Enter in WISTIO.
Presta valve is a very small part onto your bicycle, but it is so important as brake.
Wistio have been manufacturing Tubeless Valve products for quite some time now and are among the industry (If not, the world) leaders in Tubeless Presta Valves and Accessories. They have a wide variety of valve styles to suit rim types ranging from the original Stan’s Tubeless Ready rims, American Classics, Mavic, Enve Composites, Zelvy, etc… Infact their tubeless ready presto valves are so versitile that even converting non tubeless ready or even cheap, entry level rims & tyres to tubeless is a breeze! They also come in a wide variety of hard anodised colourings to choose from to give your ride that personalised touch.
It may have had slow beginnings in the world of cycling but the tubeless revolution has finally arrived and is here to stay.
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This can be simple. Like in every sport the hieghr the level the more the gear makes a differnce. In a short and intense game like cross every second counts, when your on the rivit for an hour you can’t be second guessing the gear and as you gain experience with low volume cross tires you will also be able to feel the differnce in a couple pounds of tire pressure. It’s like waxing nordic skis!I have run tubeless for years and just in the last few years have I used tubulars. In the past I did not like the tubular options, limited tread options and very fragile. They are also way more work, more expensive, and less practical for everyday riding. Having said that, they rule for racing! Now there are tons of good tubulars availible and they are much better for dialing in tire pressure for slick and/or bumpy courses. There is no better feeling than sticking an off camber icy/muddy corner at full speed with the rim barely suspended above the ground by minimal air pressure, it’s like defying the laws of physics.Having said that, I have always had great luck with tubelss. I have used the Michelin Mud 2 with a stans strip and sealant without trouble. I have gone entire seasons running nothing but tubless Michelins, winning races in all conditions. In 2007 at cross nationals I had one bike set up tubless and one bike set up with tubulars. It was sliiick!!! I changed bikes from the tubeless to the tubular at the mid point due to mud/ice build up and could not tell the diference. Finished 7th elite. Both set ups ripped! 2005 cross nationals in Portland was also muddy and I ran Michelin muds again set up tubeless and finished 10th. The tires were not holding me back. So if it is done right tubeless works great.Not all tires are the same and I use Michelin muds because they are high volume, have very consistent beads, supple side walls, great tread, roll fairly well, and wear great. Actualy I am still using the pair from 07 nationals and just replace the stans each year. I have used other tires without the same luck.If you want to try out some different tire options come up and lets go for ride. You are welcome to ride some of my tubulars or tubless wheels and we can dial in the pressure for you. You can get a feel for it.Sorry this is so long but I have been doing this for years and am happy to pass on some of what I have learned. I don’t know it all and I continue to learn and refine technique, strategy, gear selection, training, line selection, etc.I think next year I am going to do a series of cross camps to start passing on what I have learned over the past 15 years. The wonderfull thing about cross it is technique dependent and you can improve for years despite not improving the motor. No wonder UTCX got over 400 riders per race last year. This year will see over 500 later man
I have used the Tufo Extreme Sealant with Vittoria Corsa Evo CX tubular tyres and have reearipd two small punctures with great success. I only used about a quarter of the bottle for each repair. I bought the sealant to use with my Tufo Carbon Composite tyres but have stopped riding them as they are the slowest tyres (combined with the Tufo extreme tape) that I have ever ridden. I had read that Tufo Tyres and Tape was slow but didn’t beleive it until I couldn’t keep up with fast bunch rides that I would normally be at the front end of. Anyway I’m very happy with the Extreme sealant but will never use Tufo Tyres again. Maybe I should give one of their higher TPI tyres a chance and glue it on to my wheels but why would I risk it when I know how quick the Vittoria’s are. Beleive the reviews about rolling resistance of tyres, Michelin Pro race and Shwalble Ultremo are great in clinchers and Vittoria CX is the go for a Tubular tyre.